Should you stay in the north or the south of Tenerife? It's the first decision most visitors face, and it shapes the whole trip. Teide and the mountains that run along the island split it in two. The north-east trade winds bring clouds and rain to the north, which is green, cooler and home to the island's historic towns. The south, in the rain shadow, is dry, sunny and where most of the resorts were built from the 1960s onwards.
Neither is better: they suit different travellers. The island is also small enough — about 80 km from end to end — that wherever you stay, you can visit the other side for a day. The photo above shows the green north coast of Tenerife.
The Short Answer
Choose It For
Guaranteed sun, calm beaches, big resorts, family attractions and the main airport.
Choose It For
Historic towns, green landscapes, hiking, local food and a more Canarian atmosphere.
With a Week or More
Four nights in the south, three in the north: the best of both.
South vs North at a Glance
| Factor | South | North |
|---|---|---|
| Weather | Sunnier, drier and a few degrees warmer | More cloud, especially in winter and summer afternoons; occasional rain |
| Landscape | Dry, volcanic, resort coast | Green, terraced, banana plantations and forest |
| Beaches | Calm, mostly golden, many man-made | Black sand, wilder Atlantic waves; Las Teresitas in the north-east |
| Towns | Purpose-built resorts | La Laguna, La Orotava, Puerto de la Cruz, Garachico |
| Families | Siam Park, calm beaches, big resort hotels | Loro Parque, natural pools |
| Nightlife | Las Américas and Costa Adeje | Local bars in Santa Cruz and La Laguna |
| Hiking | Teide from the south side | Anaga, Teno, the Orotava valley |
| Airport | Tenerife South (TFS), about 20 min from Costa Adeje | Tenerife North (TFN), about 30 min from Puerto de la Cruz |
The South: Sun, Beaches and Resorts
The south is where most visitors stay, and for good reason: it's the sunniest part of the island, the beaches are calm and well equipped, and the hotels range from simple apartments to some of the best resorts in Spain. Tenerife South Airport is close by, and Teide is about an hour's drive up the mountain.
Costa Adeje is the most upmarket area, with Playa del Duque, Fañabé and the fish restaurants of La Caleta. Playa de las Américas is the liveliest, with the island's biggest concentration of bars and clubs. Los Cristianos, an old fishing village, has a real town centre, a very calm beach and the ferries to La Gomera. Further west, Los Gigantes and Puerto de Santiago are quieter, with the cliffs and the black sand of La Arena. The downsides: the resorts are purpose-built and can feel similar, and much of the area is busy in high season.
The North: Green, Historic and Canarian
The north is where Tenerife's history is. San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a lively university town with a colonial grid of streets; La Orotava has grand mansions with carved wooden balconies; and Garachico is a small historic port with natural lava pools. Puerto de la Cruz, which has welcomed visitors since the 19th century, is the north's main resort: a real town with a harbour, botanical gardens, Loro Parque and the seawater pools of Lago Martiánez, designed by César Manrique.
The landscape is green, with banana plantations, vineyards and the laurel forests of Anaga, some of the best walking on the island. The trade-off is the weather: the north is often cloudy, particularly in winter and on summer afternoons, and gets most of the island's rain. It's rarely cold, and the cloud often breaks over the coast, but if your priority is a tan, the south is the safer choice. Beaches are mostly black sand with Atlantic waves — see our natural pools guide for the best places to swim.
Which Side Suits You?
Families with Young Children
The south: calm beaches, resort pools and Siam Park. Visit Loro Parque in the north on a day trip.
Couples
Costa Adeje for a beach holiday; La Laguna, La Orotava or Garachico for a more romantic, local experience.
Hikers
The north, for Anaga, Teno and the Orotava valley. The south is better placed for an early start on Teide.
Winter Sun
The south, without question. The north is mild but often cloudy from November to March.
Food Lovers
The north: guachinches, local wineries and markets in La Laguna and Santa Cruz.
Nightlife
The south for resort nightlife in Las Américas; Santa Cruz and La Laguna for local bars, and Carnival in February.
The Best of Both: A Split Stay
With a week or more, consider splitting your stay: four nights in the south for the beaches and the sun, then three in the north for La Laguna, Anaga and the Orotava valley. The motorway links the two sides in about an hour, and the drive over Teide makes a spectacular transfer day. With fewer days, stay in the south and visit the north on a day trip — see our 3 days in Tenerife itinerary.
Where to Stay on Each Side
The South
Bahía del Duque
A grand resort above Playa del Duque, the best beach in the south.
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H10 Costa Adeje Palace
A seafront hotel near the restaurants and promenade of La Caleta.
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Catalonia Oro Negro
A well-priced base in the centre of Las Américas, close to the beaches and nightlife.
Check Prices →The North
Hotel Botánico
Tropical gardens and a renowned spa, next to the botanical garden.
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La Laguna Gran Hotel
In the UNESCO old town, close to Anaga and Tenerife North Airport.
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Hotel San Roque
A boutique hotel in a historic house in Garachico, near the lava pools.
Check Prices →See the Other Side on a Day Trip
Santa Cruz, La Laguna and Anaga
The best of the north-east in one day, with pick-up from the south.
Check Prices →
Whale and Dolphin Watching
The south-west coast's year-round pilot whales and dolphins.
Check Prices →Staying Connected
A Yesim eSIM keeps maps working on mountain roads between the two sides.
Which Airport?
Most international flights use Tenerife South (TFS). Tenerife North (TFN) is mainly for flights from mainland Spain and the other islands.
Frequently Asked Questions
Our Honest Verdict
The south for sun, the north for character
For a first visit, a beach holiday or winter sun, stay in the south: the weather is more reliable, the beaches calmer and the airport closer. For culture, hiking, food and a Tenerife that feels Canarian rather than international, stay in the north.
Best of all, with a week or more, split your stay — the two sides are only an hour apart.
For specific hotels, see our best hotels in the south and best hotels in the north guides, and our Tenerife travel guide.